Bargain of the Week

Manufacturer: Ernest Borel
Style/Model: Square automatic with "Clamshell" waterproof style case
Case material: Stainless steel
Dimensions: 37mm lug to lug by 26 wide, not including crown
Price paid: $50

Here is a sample of the kind of watches I like to buy, and a perfect example of how there are thousands and thousands of watches "out there" that are priced at $100 and less (sometimes much less). This is an Ernest Borel square automatic. All stainless steel case, of an experimental "waterproof" variety used by several manufacturers at the time. Note the four screws on the back of the watch, one inside each lug. A gasket inside the watch, along with a special crystal with a lip along the edge, form a "sandwich" that is compressed as these screws are tightened.

This case, along with several like with small variations in design, were patented in the late 1930s and manufactured by companies separate from watch manufacturers. Thus, Ernest Borel (and many other companies) purchased these cases, and installed their own movements and dials. I have seen watches like this produced by Girard Perregaux, Tissot, and Cyma/Tavannes, among others. Gallet, in fact, liked one particular variation on this case so much that they purchased the patent from Schmitz Freres of Switzerland, and used it in their "Clamshell," one of the first, if not the first, water resistant chronograph. Though Gallet technically owns the right to the "Clamshell" name, the term has come to be known in the watch collecting world as any case with this type of closure.

The case design was good in theory, but proved to be flawed in many instances. The watch, when brand new, was fine against "casual" moisture, such as splashing, getting wet from a rainstorm, etc. The watch also did very well in humid environments, and was often advertised in markets (Asia, South America, India, etc.) as a "Tropical" watch. But problems began as the watches aged, and the gaskets surrounding the case and the crown deteriorated, and the plastic crystal began to shrink. In addition, iron screws were used in some cases (rather than stainless steel) that rusted over time from body sweat and other other moisture. The screws would have to be replaced, if they could be removed at all, or drilled out.

Also, the screws go into the hole at an angle, and thus an inattentive watchmaker could damage the screw heads by attempting to apply straight downward pressure on them.

The result is that, today, these type of watches are difficult to find in good condition. This one is particularly nice. Yes, the dial has a bit of a yellow patina on it, but the case is in very pristine condition. When you look at these with an eye toward buying them, be sure to check the condition of the screws, and also be sure the crystal is in good condition (not cracked) because replacements are hard to find.

The history of Ernest Borel is quite interesting. Founded in Neuchatel, Switzerland, in 1856, the brand was virtually unknown in the United States until the late 1940s, because their market was primarily China until the Communist takeover of that country in 1949. The company is primarily known for its "Cocktail Watch," introduced in 1953, but produced many innovative watch models over the years, including the "Rendezvous" (an alarm watch, often seen with "Rendez-Vous" on the dial); the "Dateoptic" (with date magnifying lens on the dial rather than the crystal); and the "Sea Gem" (a robust sport watch). If you are a member of the NAWCC, you can read my full article on Ernest Borel in the Nov./Dec. 2013 issue of the Watch & Clock Bulletin.

You'll probably see this watch soon on my website, priced at around $100.

Thanks to David Boettcher for helping me identify the case style on this watch. David has done extensive research on the history waterproof case designs, beginning in the early 1900s. You can read David's articles on his website.

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